The last unexplored wilderness

Oct. 3: The more we read the more we are convinced that South Andros has all the characteristics we need  for the final scenes of Night Watch. Andros is the largest of the Bahamas islands and is described in one of our Yachtsman’s guides having “a strange, otherworldly charm of its own”. The Andros Beach Club Welcome Guide describes the interior of the island ‘the last unexplored wilderness in North America”. South Andros is really a separate island, isolated and cut off from the rest of Andros by a bight that goes completely across the island. (See map) No roads connect this part of Andros with the middle and northern parts. There is one airstrip at Congo Town and that is how we will arrive. We have never been to South Andros. Years ago we went into Morgan’s Bluff on our sailboat and just last year we took the fast ferry from Nassau to Fresh Creek. Both of these settlements are on North Andros.

Just think of this setting for mystery and suspense. Much of Andros is water; dozens of creeks have narrow shoal inlets from the sea that widen into vast areas of shallow water and swamp. Some of the creeks connect with freshwater lakes and several meander from coast to coast. Most of Andros is covered with forests of pine and hardwoods, including mahogany. Nassau gets much of its fresh water supply from Andros. All the settlements are on the east coast of Andros, the west is totally uninhabited except by numerous species of birds, mosquitoes, horse-flies and a few wild hogs.

Folk lore still dominates parts of Andros with a belief in the chickcharnie, a form of gremlin. They are described as bird-like beings with  huge red eyes who, three fingers and toes and a head that can turn all the way around. When not employed in mischief, they nest in pine trees, hanging from their tail. (Sorry no photos. I’ll try to get one while we are there.) It is unwise to irritate a chickcharnie by laughing at them or bad luck will follow you. It is, however,  advisable to dress in bright colors, that, not surprising dominate the Androsian batik clothing. Chickcharnie like bright things and will bestow their blessings on you and  so will the Androsians whose enterprise you support!

Andros is know for its batik clothing and table linens which is now sold on the internet and many other outlets. But it is also known for three other things. Bone fishing, which I understand is only for sport. These fish put up a wonderful battle if that’s what your after, but are not good for anything else. Second, the barrier reef that lies parallel to the east coast, and third, blue holes. The reef is over 140 miles long and is the second longest reef in the Western Hemisphere. It holds some of the best reef diving in the world and many of the resorts, including Small Hope Bay Resort and our destination, Andros Beach Club, cater to cliff and cave divers. We are not divers and can only offer other people’s descriptions and photos.

Just beyond the shallow reef is the Tongue of the Ocean. Shown here as a very dark blue tongue. I can attest to this, we have sailed in this area. The water changes suddenly from light blue to deep, dark blue. Unlike most of the shallow Bahamas, it is over 1,000 fathoms deep and because of its unusual characteristics is used by the U.S. Navy to test submarine technology and other underwater warfare. The base, called AUTEC is strictly off limits-another one of Andros’s  mysteries.

 Blue holes are exactly that, deep water-filled  holes that are popular with cave divers. Blue holes were made from water erosion of the limestone at the end of the ice age and form both inland pools or deep depressions in the otherwise shallow Bahamian banks.  Blue holes are the legends of a second mythical creature on Andros, the Lusca, a half octopus, half shark sea monster that lurks in the watery depths, protecting these holes. So divers beware!

Our goal on this short trip is to locate the setting for the final chapters of Night Watch, hike to the remains of the old Spanish Fort that with its spectacular views to the unexplored west, travel by boat up some of the creeks, talk to locals about the rich heritage of this island, and in general learn all we can to make our setting as rich as any character in the novel.

So, if we keep the Chickcharnie happy, we will be posting our next blog from Andros, if not, well, know that we had a last adventure!

Jan and Ed

About ejhowle23

Authors and adventurers, participated in the World Race 2011, an automobile rally from New York to Paris, crossing three continents and 14,000 land miles. Following much the same route as the setting for our debut novel, The Long Road to Paris. This blog describes our own adventures and challenges. And now you can follow our Bahamas sailing adventure that provides the setting for our second novel, Night Watch. Our rally, the African Safari Challenge, crossed five countries in South Africa in May 2014 and in 2015 we participated in the second Trans-American rally this time from Nova Scotia to San Francisco. Spring of 2016 we travelled 28 days around Australia with friends from previous rallies and in the fall participated in our most exhausting rally through Argentina, Chili and Peru- the Rally of the Incas. We were awarded the Against All Odds award. We're still not sure if this was for us or our car. Stewball never broke down and we hardly did. We will soon take on Iceland as a self-drive tour and in the fall of 2017 we will participate in the Odyssey Italia and then back to Africa for a do-over (almost) of the Africa Safari Challenge.
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3 Responses to The last unexplored wilderness

  1. Carla says:

    Sounds like a very exciting trip, will make good material for the book. Can you take the dinghy into those creeks? Have fun with your next adventure and keep us posted through Facebook 🙂

  2. ronaldsieber says:

    Andros sounds like the perfect place to have a mysterious scientist whose experiments sometimes “escape.” Oops! Someone else already wrote that.
    Keep having fun down there,

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